Latest Event Updates
Led lights finally found its way on to Castle Thale!
Our little girl is now 1,5 years and the castle is now on the wall in her room!
At night, only the 4 lights in the guard towers are on, while the rest of the tower is asleep🙂 Makes for some nice nightlight for Thale.
Read the rest of the build here.
My trusty old soldering-iron recently got an upgrade!
With the help of a NodeMCU. a RGB-LED it now reports the set temperature to the #IoT Thingspeak.com server through WIFI.
It also sends me Prowl messages on my Iphone when I forget to turn it off.
It all started when I needed to fix the display on the Soldering-iron itself after some guys at the soldering-iron factory forgot to mount the segment display properly.
The road to IoT is anything but streamlined yet. The NodeMCU & Arduino IDE integration is in it early stages and the tutorials out there are few and full of frustation.
Join me and read how I went on with the Soldering-iron #IoT project here!
Quote “Every princess needs a castle” -Vegard Paulsen 2013.
In december 2013, when we found out we where expecting a little girl, my wife and I decided that we would need a princess castle! After all, we were expecting a little princess, and according to a comment i made earlier that year it was time to build one.
But how to build a castle inside a 66m2 small appartment? Our prototyping skills really came to good use this time.
Unfortunately we live in Norway, and have never been to Disney world in USA. To never actually have seen the Disney Princess Castles made it difficult to draw one out of my own imagination. I honestly had no clue how it would look like other than Disney movie references from Sleeping beauty, so i started searching away on the internet after Disney sleeping beauty castle. I soon in love with the design of the original “Sleeping beauty castle” in Disneyland Anaheim in California!
The next step was to start figuring out how to make that castle a part of our little daughters bedrom!
This was a huge project to take on right before a baby arrives.
I have had my trusty Makerbot Thing-o-matic 3d printer for over 3 years, and its time to move on to a bigger, better one, as the cost of buing spareparts on the old one gets higher every day. The trouble of repairing the Makerbot all the time vs the cost of upgrading to a newer one with larger build area and faster buildtimes made it an easy decicion!
I recently purchased the Seemecnc Rostock Max V2 kit from http://www.seemecnc.com and started putting it together right away when it arrived. With a build area of 28cm diameter, and a build height of almost 40 cm this should be fun!
25+ build hours later, its now time to share some pictures of the build.
So i built myself a quadcopter in january 2014. Instead of buying a Ready-To-Fly multicopter, I plunged into building my own and it isn’t difficult as long as you choose a nice flight controller and have a bit of experience remote controlled things and know how to use a soldering iron. I went with the popular DJI Naza controller with a GPS module and gathered the rest of the parts from scrap in my workshop and on cheap hong-kong-based websites. I Planned and sketched the design in Google Sketchup during christmas 2013 while i waited for the motors and the ESCs to arrive in the mail. I milled the parts i needed on my Probotix Fireball CNC and 3d printed some parts on my Makerbot Thing-o-matic. Total hours of build was probably about 20-30 hours in my workshop, and most of them drawing in sketchup and milling parts, waiting for the 3d-prints or soldering up cables. I also built two voltage regulator circuits with a 7805 (5volt) and a 7812(12 volt) for powering the electronics that didn’t like 14.8Volt from the 4Cell lipo battery, mounted the voltage-regulators directly to the aluminum frame for cooling, and soldered everything together at my workshop.
The quadcopter has an unbalanced frame with the two front arms pointing away from the camera in front to make sure the camera doesn’t film the propellers or arms. At first i was a bit afraid of the unbalanced frame being a problem in the air, but the DJI Naza controller fixes everything and really gives a smooth controllable flight in GPS mode.
The multicopter was a success and had about 25 hours of flight-time until its life ended with a fatal bird-strike in one propeller at 100 meters altitude over a large empty field.
This is the last picture of the quad, about 3 minutes before it hit a bird!
If you want to see a video of it racing around in the night-time, check this out.
Click here for a flight video of the copter visiting IKEA
So the copter worked beautiful until it had a bird-strike in mid-air crashlanded in a tiny river far, far away. Recovery-mission was launched but just as the Malaysian flight 370 that disappeared the day before the crash, the multicopter went into stealth mode and was never seen again. The river is definitely muddy and location of impact is unclear. I considered to go home and get my drysuit and divegear but the visibility is really down to zero in that muddy water and its probably full of chemicals as well so a new episode of “aircraft investigations” will have to wait. The expensive parts is not recoverable after being soaked in water so i wrote the copter off as a nice working (and expensive) first prototype.
Here is the build log of my copter as well as some hard learned lessons and a lot of pictures of the build.
Read the rest below and watch pictures and a video of the CNC process.
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